Revolutionary Chinese Cookbook: Recipes from Hunan Province, by Fuchsia Dunlop

In Land of Plenty, Fuchsia Dunlop wrote about the fiery and flavorful cuisine of Szechuan province. In her latest cookbook, Revolutionary Chinese Cookbook: Recipes From Hunan Province, she explores the cuisine of Szechuan’s nearby neighbour. Hunan is renowned for both its fiery food and revolutionary fervor – both General Zuo Zongtang (the man whom General Tso’s Chicken is named after), and Chairman Mao Zedong were born here.

Even more so than Szechuan cuisine, Hunan food is famous for its liberal use of chilies. There is an old saying that, while the Sichuanese are not afraid of chili heat, the Hunanese are terrified of food that isn't hot. However, Dunlop points out that there is much more to Hunan cuisine, including hot and sour dishes, slow cooked stews, and smoked meats.

The recipe section of the book is divided into ten categories, including appetizers and street food, meat, poultry and eggs, beancurd, rice and noodles, sweet dishes, and preserves and stocks. The recipes are carefully chosen to showcase the variety of tastes and flavors in Hunan cuisine. Among the 120 recipes you'll find:

• Aromatic Duck Salad
• Aromatic Beef With Coriander
• Bok Choy With Chestnuts
• General Tso's Chicken
• Smoked Bean Curd Steamed With Black Beans and Chilies
• Red Braised Bream or Sea Bass
• Potato Slivers With Vinegar
• Stir-fried Chicken Slivers With Yellow Chives
• Spicy Eggplant Pot

Some are specifically chosen to highlight the impact of social forces on Hunan food and cooking. For example, a recipe for yolkless eggs, dating back to the 1930's and the heyday of Hunan haute cuisine, is difficult to make and in the author’s own words is, "ridiculously fussy." On the other hand, hard-torn cabbage with vinegar is the type of simple, inexpensive dish that may have frequently been served in the early days of the cultural revolution, when food was scarce.

There are also recipes that are a familiar feature on many North American Chinese restaurant menus, such as General Tso's Chicken and classic Soup Noodles.

The recipes are clear and well-written, containing a brief introductory section and the Chinese words and characters for each dish. The book could use more color photographs (a common cookbook complaint these days) but the ones that are scattered throughout the book are excellent.

The Revolutionary Chinese Cookbook is a worthwhile addition to any culinary bookshelf. True, the book doesn't quite match Dunlop’s previous cookbook, but that would be hard act to follow. In Land of Plenty, Dunlop’s research included a stint at the Sichuan Institute of Higher Cuisine, and it shows in her in-depth knowledge of the flavors and cooking methods that make up this great cuisine. While her most recent cookbook isn’t quite up to that standard, it is a very good resource for anyone who wants to have a greater understanding of Hunan cuisine (including how it differs from Szechuan cooking), and to be able to create authentic Hunan recipes.